By Carolyn Mead
Frivolous and funky, colorful and chunky, Bakelite jewelry can be fun to own and wear. There's something spectacular about all the great colors and the way they mix together so well. Whether on an arm loaded with striking bangles or a whimsical pin on a jacket lapel, nothing quite competes with Bakelite in terms of novelty and eye appeal.
Bakelite is as appealing now as it was 70 years ago. Combining the two substances carbolic acid and formaldehyde produced a beautiful and versatile substance known as phenolic resin or Bakelite, a revolutionary non-flammable early plastic. "The material of a thousand uses," as it was called, made a splash in the 1920s, '30s and '40s.
BAKELITE PRODUCTION
Around 1900, the Belgian-born Dr. Leo Baekeland, working as an independent chemist, came upon the compound quite by accident. After selling the rights to his first discovery to Eastman Kodak, he focused on developing a less-flammable bowling alley floor shellac. Dr. Baekeland soon realized that a resin that was both insoluble and infusible could have a much wider appeal when used as a moulding compound. He obtained a patent in 1909 and started the Bakelite Corporation around 1910.This new liquid resin was unique, as colored dyes could be added to the liquid state to color the material. Phenolic resin could be produced in a multitude of colors, most commonly yellow, brown, butterscotch, green and red. By omitting pigment, a transparent or translucent effect could be achieved.
Early Bakelite had diverse commercial applications and was used in the production of gramophone records, billiard balls and electrical wiring. This was because the resin could be moulded or cast, depending on variations in the formula. When moulding, the formula was cooked until resinous, spread out in thin sheets to harden, then ground to a fine consistency. Powdered fillers and pigment were added, to enable the resin to be moulded and to add color. This mixture was then put through hot rollers, which created large sheets of colored hardened resin. These sheets were then ground into a very fine powder, which was moulded under high heat and pressure into the final product form. As a moulded material, the resin's drawback was the limited range of colors that could be created.
When cast, the formula was modified, enabling the resin to be poured into lead moulds and then cured in ovens until it polymerized into a hard substance. The liquid resin could be tinted to any color or "marbleized" by mixing two colors together. Castings were made in the shape of cylinders or blocks.
Bakelite replaced flammable celluloid, previously the most popular synthetic material for moulded items, as a major substance for jewelry production. When the Bakelite patent expired in 1927, the Catalin Corporation acquired it. They began mass production under the name Catalin, using the cast resin formula and adding 15 new colors to the original five produced by the Bakelite Corporation (which had used the moulded formula), as well as the now-famous marbleized effect.
Suddenly, Bakelite was everywhere: belt buckles, buttons, handbag handles, umbrella handles, brooches, bracelets, pins, earrings and charm bracelets. It was made into blocks or tubes, from which individual pieces were cut and carved. Bangle bracelets were cut from the tube, then tumbled in a polisher with coarse silica to sand down the rough edges. Other items were carved, such as brooch pins, belt buckles and handles for various items.
OTHER APPLICATIONS
Bakelite's many uses also allowed it to become a standard item in the family home of the 1930s and '40s and it was used for kitchenware, napkin holders, lamps and light fittings, as well as decorative items such as jewelry and card boxes. By the end of World War II, new technology had given birth to injection-moulded plastics, and most manufacturers switched to less laborintensive and more practical means of developing products. The production of Bakelite and Catalin became obsolete.During the mid-1970s, Bakelite was promoted by artist, photographer and flea market icon Andy Warhol, who amassed a large collection of Bakelite carvings and whimsical Martha Sleeper pins. Although the most desirable carved bangle bracelets and figural pins cost more now than the average collector might want to spend, there are still some affordable choices on the market. Plain bangles in red, green, yellow and black make a striking presentation. Many rings, pins and necklaces with less-elaborate carving provide an amazing burst of color to a finger, collar or neckline. And for more drama, group several pieces together.
Photos by John Woudstra.
BURSTING THE BAKELITE BUBBLE
A benefit in buying the more common pieces comes with their relative exemption from fakes. These fakes are usually made from genuine Bakelite produced in the 1930s or old radio cases recycled from that era. When trying to tell if a piece is Bakelite, education pays. Before buying a costly piece, be sure you're comfortable with the dealer or individual selling it. Take some time to ask questions about the origin of the piece.Also, prepare yourself by learning the feel, smell and look of Bakelite.
To test an item by feel, consider its weight in comparison with other plastics; Bakelite feels heavier and denser. Bakelite also sounds different - a clunky, almost musical sound when hit together. The smell test endures as the most widely used method. To accomplish this, rub the item vigorously with your thumb then take a whiff before it cools. A distinct chemical odor lingers with most Bakelite. Some people have better results heating the piece with hot water before smelling. American buyers also use the Scrubbing Bubbles' bathroom cleaner test, using a product sold in the USA.
Eyeing a piece can give some good clues. Most Bakelite jewelry items have some wear and a patina that new plastic doesn't usually exhibit. There are sometimes tiny chips on the edges of the carving and other tell-tale signs easily recognized by those in the know. As Bakelite often acquires a patina over the years, the Bakelite colors of yesterday have often mellowed into softer hues.
Bakelite jewelry is prized today for its amazing range, grand style, hearty silliness, streamlined chic and daring inventiveness. Among serious collectors, there is strong competition for the rare, quality pieces that were made in limited numbers under such evocative brand names as Marblette, Gemstone, Prystal, Agtine and Catalin.
If you are interested in Bakelite there are many informative websites and online traders, as well as good reference books.
