By Ron Ortiz
Paris haute couture had always been preeminent in setting fashions for women's dress. Designers such as Coco Chanel, Germain Gres, Jacques Fath, Christian Dior and Jean Desse had fashion houses in Paris since the 1930s. However, the Second World War had an adverse effect on the Parisian fashion industry. Many of the houses closed due to the lack of materials, limited access to the world market and the Nazi occupation. Because of this, Paris was no longer considered the fashion center and it appeared that New York would replace it. But the Paris designers bounced back after the war and many of them resumed fashion prominence once again. But the post World War II renaissance of Italian fashion challenged the significance of France as a fashion center.
Elsa Schiaparelli was among the first Italianborn designers to gain international fame but she only achieved it through the Paris couture industry. Schiaparelli made her initial mark in the fashion world with her sweater designs. Soon, her sweater ensembles and chemises became widely sought after and Schiaparelli shifted her emphasis to imaginative daywear and eveningwear. The "House of Schiaparelli" was born in Paris but closed down during the war and never again reached the fashion pinnacle it achieved in the 1930s. However, her creations and style have been widely imitated at sometime or another by almost every fashion designer.
Nina (Nielli) Ricci was also born in Italy.
Her family moved to Paris when she was twelve and Nina, always fascinated by fashion, apprenticed to a dressmaker at the age of thirteen. By age 22, she was one of the chief designers in Paris. Nina and Louis Ricci, her jeweler husband, opened the "House of Ricci" in 1932 and brought the house to international prominence with her extremely feminine designs. One of the great couturiers of France, Madame Ricci knew with a women's instinct how to enhance each client's personality with extraordinary designs that combined classicism, femininity and sophistication.
Maria Monaci Gallenga and Mariano Fortuny were among the early Italian artist/ designers who called Italy home. Gallenga was an artist who created an ingenious method of stenciling metallic paint on velvet. She began creating one-a-kind fashions early in the 20th Century and showed them in Florence and Rome. Also a renowned artist, Fortuny's method of printing and coloring fabrics produced a glorious variety of stunning fashions. His stenciled velvet cloaks and fabulous silk dresses designed at his palazzo in Venice gave him his worldrenowned name. Fortuny traveled to Paris and London to display his creations in the couture shops.
Thus the Italian influence began in Paris, traveled to Florence and it was only a matter of time until the Italian designers would emerge and become well known and as popular as the French. Among the first Italian designers to achieve success outside of the Paris couture scene was Valentino Garavani. However, even much of Valentino's couture was influenced by his Paris experience. After working in the Paris design shops, Valentino started his own company in Rome in 1961. Notable in his designs are his combination of French embroideries with Italian fabrics. Valentino's style signature is one of lavish elegance and he designed the wedding dress for Jackie Kennedy to Aristotle Onassis in 1968.
Italian fashion, as we know it today, was born in Florence in early 1951. A Florentine businessman, Giovanni Battisti Giorgini staged the first formal fashion show in the drawing room at the Villa Torrigiani. Giorgini invited American buyers, celebrities and even persuaded journalists to cover the affair. It was a triumph! At the end of a lavish party, designer newcomer Roberto Capucci presented five creations that stirred a buzz in the fashion industry. Although his segment was not on the schedule, word had leaked out and the next day, the worldwide press clamored to see the dresses. These incredibly inventive creations were regarded as fabric sculptures and the Americans saw first hand how stylish and innovative the Italian fashion industry was. On that day, Firenze became for many years, the Italian fashion capital. Subsequent the Florence fashion shows moved to the Palazzo Pitti, where the best tailors and designers gather to express their creativity with fabulous collections.
Representing the male side of Italian fashion, master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and fashion designer Gaetano Savini opened one of the first men's fashion houses in Rome in 1947. The two partners named it Brioni after one of the most elegant resorts on the Adriatic coast. Brioni's Italian style expressed a new way of dressing for men because it managed to unite renewal with a classic stylish cut. Their first historic show was held in 1952 at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence and soon Brioni became the first true ambassador of men's fashion in the world. Movie stars Clark Gable, Gary Cooper, John Wayne, Kirk Douglas, Rock Hudson and many more, bought their suits from Brioni. In 1954, Brioni held a fashion show in New York City. All eyes were riveted on the Italian fashion scene and Brioni's styles scored successes and won awards on both sides of the Atlantic.
Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento, a debonair Italian aristocrat, was well known for his rich colors, supple fabrics, geometric patterns and dramatic prints. His couture collection was worn by some of the most celebrated women of the times, including Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor.
The descendant of a noble Florentine family, Pucci led the post-war emergence of the casually chic and the jet set. The mod Marchese became known for his bright geometric prints. His dresses were flattering and easily packed for travel. Pucci's signature clothes were the cutting-edge style throughout the 50s and early 60s. Pucci prints appeared everywhere, on shoes, umbrellas, pants suits, scarves, purses, luggage, bathing suits and dresses. Emilio Pucci even designed flight attendant uniforms for Braniff Airlines in the 1970s, combining turquoise and green polyester solids with Pucci prints.
These days the Pucci label is enjoying renewed popularity but it is the highly collectible clothes and accessories of the 60s that are truly valuable vintage.
Guccio Gucci was born in 1881, the son of a leather craftsman in Florence, Italy. At an early age, Gucci learned the leather trade, crafting saddles and rider needs. He turned his attention to high-quality fashion and decorative creations, expanding his product range to handbags and luggage. The material shortage during fascism and the Second World War only served to increase Gucci's creativity by his use of alternative materials such as hemp, linen, jute and bamboo. Even today, these components are still the mark of unmistakable Gucci, which developed to a distinct Italian design. During the 1960s, the Gucci creations were raised to a status symbol and recognized worldwide.The Italian fashion world continues to dazzle the consumers at the retail level. With the rich heritage of art, commerce and technology, Italy has created a stimulating, world-class style in women and men's fashions. Armani, Moschino, Prada and Camerino keep the Italian tradition alive today with the MADE IN ITALY label.
Giorgio Armani brought a new concept to women's dressing and has had the most influence on fashion since Christine Dior and Mary Quant. Armani began designing under his own name in 1974 when he introduced the first Giorgio Armani menswear collection. In 1975, he launched his first women's line, using menswear fabrics in highly refined and sophisticated versions for women's suits. Armani's cre ations were embraced by legions of women who guaranteed his success. Armani revolutionized fashion by altering the way men and women dressed and proving that luxury doesn't mean uncomfortable. Today, he heads a multi-million dollar business.
When Franco Moschino made his debut in 1983, he dared to present designs that had nothing in common with the sumptuous fashions of Italy's leading designers. His irreverent attitude is shown in his designs inspired by the street and real women. His philosophy, "What you like is fashionable: don't be a fashion victim, " is embraced by women of all ages who have rediscovered the pleasure of being themselves. Moschino died at the young age of 43 but his label lives on.
Miuccia Prada inherited the family business and in less than a decade, turned a small Florence leather goods manufacture into one of the hottest names in fashion. Her first pursuit was to abandon leather altogether and design fashion accessories with exotic materials such as parachute silk and finely woven nylon. The plain, almost austere ready-to-wear fashions launched in 1989 provided a stark contrast to the overtly sensual designs of other labels of the time.
Inspired by colorful images of her youth, Roberta di Camerino set out to explore the flamboyant world of design and fashion. She popularized the "trompe l'oeil" style with her clothing, bags, men's ties and umbrellas. Trompe l'oeil is French for "fool the eye", the art of creating the illusion of a third dimension.
Italia ... known for it's four "Cs", Climate, Commerce, Cuisine and Culture, has added a fifth "C" to that list: COUTURE. From Emilio Pucci to the Fontana Sisters, from Capucci to Valentino and also to Mandelli, Missoni and Armani. In fifty years, Italy has become the leader in fashion luxury. In 1951, there were only 13 Italian tailors and today there can be over 185 Italian fashion designers vying for a single show.
LA DOLCE VITA!
