By Ron Ortiz
Josephine Baker was a famous singer, dancer and performer. Although she wasn't a jazz artist in the strictest sense, she was considered an "icon of the Jazz Age." Baker's flamboyant and colorful attire, on and off the stage, was as much an influence on fashion as were the syncopated rhythms of the 1920s. In her own way, Josephine Baker was very much a part of the Jazz Age that she influenced. Her meteoric rise as a personality was considered a phenomenon since she was born a poor waif and lived her early life completely outside of the mainstream social circles. It was the sheer vibrancy and elan of Baker's personality that overcame her shortcomings and Josephine ultimately moved in only the best company, wearing only the best fashions which came to represent the jazz Age and the Roaring Twenties.
Fast beats, syncopated rhythms and the hot blaring sounds of jazz music like the Charleston, led female dancers in the 1920s to alter their looks to keep pace with the new dance craze. Their hair, once fashionably long, was shortened or "bobbed" -- no need to have all those curls tossing about. The once long skirts were shorten and worn above the knees -- allowing more freedom of movement while dancing to the hot, jazzy music. Women's shoes had to be made more durable and styles were altered so the dancer's feet could withstand the constant pounding. Heels were shorter and wider, belts and buckles were added to provide support and the toes were less pointed. Jazzy music influenced women's fashions in a practical sense and for practical reasons.
Around the same time, female blues singer, Bessie Smith wowed the jazz audiences with her powerful voice and soulful songs. Bessie was always clad in a wide assortment of sequined gowns and headwear, whether she was partying or performing. Bessie's styles encouraged many other female blues singers such as Ma Rainey, Sippie Wallace and Mahalia Jackson to adopt her dressy fashions. Later, Billie Holiday was among the first jazz vocalists to use fashion to create her own persona. When she first appeared with bandleader Artie Shaw at Cafe' Society in New York City in 1938, Billie wore a swatch of gardenias in her hair. This was to become her trademark throughout the 1940s, influencing many fashion conscious ladies to adopt the floral adornment. Billie Holiday's soulful, sophisticated appearance was emulated by many female singers and even some movie stars at that time.
The Cotton Club was one of the great night-spots in New York City for listening to good jazz, catching a great floor show and rubbing elbows with the rich and powerful. High society ladies were usually seen attired in diamonds, elegant furs and sequined dresses. In keeping with the fashions of the high styled clientele, Duke Ellington and Cab Calloway would always perform wearing white tuxedos. Both band leaders began their rise to fame at the "whites only" nightclub where the only blacks allowed in the place were the ones on stage.
By 1938, Benny Goodman was a household name and his big band gave the youngsters a new and exciting music to dance to. Once again, the jazzy music influenced dancing fashions that were copied across the nation. "Jitterbugs" dressed in loose fitting zoot suits while their partners wore wide-flared skirts. These outfits allowed them freedom of movement when dancing to the swing music. The swing dancers placed a great deal of emphasis on physical gestures and athletic improvisation. They leaped and jumped to the fast paced music and wore clothing that allowed them to be stylish and yet fluid with their dancing.The 1940s brought a major shift in American jazz music. New York City's 52nd Street (better known as Swing Street) became the home of the new jazz played by trumpeter Dizzy Gillespie. Along with saxophonist, Charlie Parker and pianist, Thelonious Monk, they became the most influential musicians of that era. Gillespie was as well known as a personality as he was a trumpet player. He wore outrageous attire that contrary to popular belief, was more practical than wild. Dizzy wore a beret instead of a hat so he could slip it into his pocket when playing. He also had poor vision and wore black horn-rimmed glasses because they were more durable and less subject to breakage. Dizzy originally grew a goatee as a cushion for his lip that he constantly abused trying to hit the high notes. Many fans of this new jazz called "BeBop" emulated their hero and adopted his fashions as well as his music style. Other fashion influences of that time were saxophonist, Lester Young in his porkpie hat, nattily dressed Count Basie and the always impeccably dressed Miles Davis. Miles was to dominate the jazz musician's image for the next decade. Whenever jazz musicians appeared, even in obscure venues, they were usually dressed in a coat and tie and jazz vocalists were always dressed in high-styled gowns or dresses. Thanks to Miles Davis, appearance mattered almost as much as the music.
For over 70 years, Baker's Keyboard Lounge has been one of Detroit's most famous jazz nightspots. Considered one of the oldest jazz clubs in the nation, Baker's has attracted national and international jazz performers as well as local jazz artists. During jazz's heyday in the 1950s and 60s, Baker's had a strict dress policy and one had to be "dressed up" to gain admittance. That was seldom a problem for Detroit jazz fans of that era, since they wanted to be as "hip" or "cool" in their dress as the performers and wouldn't be seen at Baker's without "dressing to the 9s."
Today, Baker's Keyboard Lounge, still located on Livernois just south of 8 Mile Road, continues to offer great jazz but the club's atmosphere is much more casual as well as the attire of the musicians and customers.
Modern or Contemporary jazz today has not only changed the direction of jazz music but the jazz musicians have adopted the relaxed dress of the Rock and Rap performers who dominate today's music scene. Slowly, jeans and T-shirts and even more casual dress has replaced the "dressed up" look of coats and ties in jazz's 1950s heyday... Sadly, in today's world, fashion and jazz no longer share a common thread. Literally speaking!
